Every now and then you sit down to a meal that, in retrospect, you deem was conceived and executed with near perfection. Nothing out of place, nothing unnecessary, almost every flavor spot on, not an ingredient superfluous, nearly nothing lacking. This happened to me recently at SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, and it can happen to you as well.
I was invited to sample the first dinner in the Tropic of Cancer Chef’s Menu At SaltAir, under the auspices of Brandi Key, the executive chef there. It was devoted to Baja, Mexico, and it was, as I write above, stellar.
You begin with a tostada, a crisp, bright amuse-bouche — plus of shrimp ceviche paired with shredded lettuce, avocado, jicama, white onion, sweet chili, and key lime. It’s a good way to get settled in your destination, near the Sea of Cortez.
