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Chef Brandi Key brings her own brand of finesse to this mostly-seafood menu, lately repositioned with more beef, pasta and chicken items. Anything from a simple crab Louie salad to a steamed market fish with ginger and green onion can please on this menu, which features an unusually nice selection of vegetables sides and appetizers. Key’s global touches can surprise and delight, as in a silky scallop ceviche gigged with Thai chile and kaffir lime leaf. A prime attraction here is the well-chosen wine list with great prices, a hallmark of the Clark Cooper group, the restaurant’s high-profile owners.

WHAT TO ORDER: Grilled shrimp with aleppo pepper, cumin and lemon olive oil; Aromatic Ginger Fish with sticky rice and bok choy; cold boiled shrimp with cocktail sauce and remoulade; Grande Shellfish Platter; avocado with corn salad, lime, cilantro, cottage cheese and crema.

PRO TIP: If you haven’t booked, try slipping into a seat at the expansive horseshoe-shaped bar.

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